Where Silence Speaks
- Merili Loucks
- 4 days ago
- 4 min read
The Hidden World of Blaca Monastery
High on the limestone cliffs above the southern coast of Brač, deep in a canyon only accessible by foot, there stands a remarkable place from a past time: Blaca Monastery.
To reach it, you must leave the world behind. There are no roads that take you all the way. The final stretch is a winding footpath once walked by monks, shepherds, and seekers. But what waits at the end is something profound: a white-stone settlement carved into the rock face itself, hidden from view, preserved by its solitude.
Blaca’s story begins in the 16th century, when Glagolitic monks fled the mainland to escape the Ottoman invasions. The monks came not with weapons, but with manuscripts, seeking a place of peace and prayer. In a steep canyon in Nerežišća, on the Southern side of Brač near Bol, they built a sanctuary that was part monastery, part fortress, part observatory, and they built it entirely by hand. Their labor was holy. The silence was their sacred sanctuary.
Over centuries of time, Blaca grew from a single carved-out cave shelter, into a fully self sustained village. The monks cultivated olives, vineyards, and bees. They did not use any type of currency. They operated solely on trade of goods. They ran a school, a print shop, and a library. One monk, Nikola Miličević, even became an esteemed astronomer. Despite the monastery’s remoteness, he acquired (by trade) a massive telescope from Germany in the early 20th century which still rests in the monastery for visitors to see, along with an acknowledgment letter from NASA for a star he discovered.
The walls of Blaca are lined with reminders of human achievement during that time: a library of books, handmade clocks, candle-worn altars, and cabinets of celestial maps. There is no electricity, no artificial sound, just pure stillness.
During the tour, you'll see a beautiful piano that was painstakingly carried up the rocky path to its destination. To motivate the local farmers and workers, the priests offered a unique reward: they were allowed to drink as much of the monastery's premium wine as they wanted during the job.
The Consumption: It took the 12 men 8 hours of agonizing physical labor to haul the instrument up the canyon. Over the course of the trek, they drank 56 liters of wine (reportedly out of a massive goat bladder) to quench their thirst and keep up their strength.
The Result: Despite the workers' heavy drinking, the 400 kg piano arrived at the music salon in perfect condition, where it still sits on display for museum visitors today.
Blaca is more than a museum. It’s a testament to devotion, scholarship, and survival. You don’t just visit Blaca. It's a pilgrimage. You feel it upon arrival. In an age of noise and rush, Blaca Monastery offers something rare: the invitation to be still. To walk slowly. To quietly listen. To rediscover the marvel of man's achievements and the idea that silence itself is prayer.
Blaca Hermitage operated as a primary school for children from the surrounding mountain villages from the 18th century until 1963. While it was primarily a monastery and an active farm estate, it served as the cultural and educational center of that part of Brač Island.
Unique Facts About the School
The Tuition Fee: Attending the school was free, but students had one unusual requirement: they had to bring one log of firewood each day to help heat the building.
The Curriculum: The resident Glagolitic priests taught local children how to read and write in both Croatian and Latin.
A Hub of Science and Culture
The classroom is just one part of the complex you can see today. Over the centuries, the priests expanded the estate into a massive hub of knowledge that included:
An astronomical observatory equipped with a massive, historic 178 mm telescope.
A library holding over 11,000 books and rare manuscripts.
Their own printing press and a music salon featuring a grand piano.
The school and the active hermitage finally closed in 1963 following the death of its last resident priest and world-renowned astronomer, Father Nikola Miličević.
Getting to the historic Blaca Hermitage (Pustinja Blaca) on the island of Brač requires traveling by land or sea and finishing the trip on foot, as no direct roads reach the monument. The two main access routes are by land via Dragovode or by sea via Blaca Bay.
By Land (Car and Hike) This is the most common route.
Drive to Dragovode: Drive from Supetar or Bol toward Vidova Gora, turn toward Blaca, and follow the gravel road to the parking area near the old village of Dragovode.
The Final Hike: Walk down the steep, rocky mule track for about 30 minutes to reach the monastery buildings. Wear hiking shoes or sneakers and if you are there in the Summer months of July and August, it's recommended to go early in the morning when the temperatures are cooler. Take plenty of water! The hike is rocky, but not too difficult.
By Sea (Boat and Hike)
Boat to Blaca Bay: Take a boat or water taxi from the coastal town of Bol directly to Blaca Bay (Popova Vala).
The Uphill Hike: Hike up the valley trail from the shore for approximately 30 to 45 minutes to arrive at the site.
This is a steeper journey that is recommended for the more experienced hikers.
Tickets can be purchased at the monestary. Tours are led on a first-come, first-served basis. Tours are available in English.
For more information:
Tel. + 385 (91) 5164671
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